If you are like most sewing, embroidery, and quilting enthusiasts, when you bought your first top-of-line machine you were certain it would be the last one you would ever need. Now you are on your second, third, fourth, or more machine update. The high end machines of today cost as much as a good used car and it’s natural to want to get as many useful years from them as you possibly can. Even if you trade in your machines every few years, keeping a machine in good condition results in a higher trade-in value.
Most Janome machines use a rotary hook system, with a bobbin case that sits in a metal hook race under the needle plate. As you almost certainly know, lint accumulates under that bobbin case. At some point, when the buildup has reached the critical point, stitching will be affected. Make it a habit to take off the needle plate, remove the bobbin case, and clean out the accumulated lint. Do this every 10 hours or so of sewing. For some this will be once a week, while others may need to do it daily. If you clean it frequently there will be very little lint falling down inside the free arm, where it can cause premature wear on moving parts. You may be tempted to use canned “air” (which isn’t actually air, but a potentially hazardous fluorocarbon) to blow out the lint. That’s bad for two reasons: First, when you spray from a new can there’s a good chance that some liquid will come out. It’s not water, and it evaporates quickly, but when it does it chills the metal parts. Water from the air in the room can then condense in the machine, and you really don’t want it there. Secondly the act of blowing the lint may actually force some of it down into the free arm, which is what we’re trying to prevent. Use a brush or soft cloth to wipe out the lint. There are after-market kits that can be attached to vacuum cleaners. Those work well to suck out the lint, without creating so much suction that machine parts are at risk.
Of equal importance to cleaning is needles. Needles become dull with use and a dull needle can lead to big problems. As one of the least expensive components in the sewing process, needles should be replaced often, not just when they seem to be making popping sounds going through the fabric. This is especially important with needles that are coated with metals like titanium and chrome. The coating makes the needle stronger, allowing it to be used longer than conventional needles. However that doesn’t mean they last forever. An overly dull needle going through heavy fabric can break, often into multiple fragments that can cause injury or machine damage.
Always look for the pieces of a broken needle. Sometimes the tip will wind up under the bobbin case, attracted by the magnet that holds the case in place.
Broken needles are one of the leading causes of machine problems. A needle breaks when it cannot go through what is under it. That might mean a dull needle that cannot penetrate the fabric any longer, but it more frequently is a needle that was pulled out of position by thread that was caught or piled up under the needle plate due to coming out of the take-up lever. Modern polyester threads are strong, so much so that a caught thread will bend a needle. Most of the time when this happens the needle will hit the presser foot, the bobbin case, or the hook race that the bobbin case rides on.
A hit on the top of a metal presser foot is not fatal, as it usually just leaves a small pit. Since the top of the foot does not contact the fabric, this doesn’t cause a problem. If the foot is plastic, though, it may be broken or cracked. If that happens get a new foot. Broken or cracked feet will catch threads, leading to more broken needles and bigger problems.
A needle hitting the bobbin case is much more serious. Sometimes a piece of the broken needle will be embedded in the case. Other times it will pierce the edge of the case, leaving a hole. Most of the time when the bobbin case is hit it should be replaced. The rough edges left by the strike will cause stitching problems, which could lead to even more damage. The best course of action is to replace the case. In rare cases you can buff out the damage with an emory board, but that should be a last resort, “final project on Christmas Eve” strategy.
The worst possible needle break is when it hits the aluminum hook race that the bobbin case sits on. This will always cause some damage. In some cases it just leaves a pit in the metal, but the raised edges of that pit will catch the threads going around the case. That can lead to “jumping” bobbins, noisy bobbins, or even the dreaded “bird nest” that itself can lead to more damage. Janome provides dealers with a tool to smooth this type of damage. It’s a simple process for a technician. Any time you break a needle use a strong light, possibly with magnification, to check the hook race for damage. If any is found, take your machine in for service. Continued use will eventually cause more damage, and if the damage is excessive it may require that the hook race be replaced.
In the next post we will examine some other things you can, and should, do to prolong the life of your machine.