Thread – Part 1

Aside from fabric, the next most important component for sewing is thread. There are many varieties from multiple manufacturers, but the importance of thread is not always appreciated. Good quality thread can make your sewing easy and enjoyable, but poor quality, cheap thread can not only be a nightmare to sew with, it can cause machine problems.

Perhaps the most popular variety of thread is cotton. Quilters value it above other types because it is made from natural fiber that works well with cotton fabrics and batting. Egyptian cotton is prized for thread, due to the fact that the fibers are longer. This makes for a smoother thread, with less lint. Unfortunately once it’s made into thread it is difficult to discover the source of the cotton and a label of “Egyptian Cotton” is not a guarantee that what your getting is really that. An easy way to judge the quality of cotton thread is to pull a foot or so off the spool and examine it closely. Good quality thread will be smooth with very few “whiskers” showing along its length. If you see a lot of fibers or lumps of fiber along the thread you should give it a pass. Lots of loose fiber on cotton thread tends to shed and build up in the machine. When used in the bobbin, these fibers will ball up behind the tension spring in the bobbin case, forcing it out to the point that tension is reduced.

Some technicians will simply tighten the bobbin tension to overcome the problem, sometimes to the point that the tension screw is fully tight against the spring. If you find that you are suddenly getting bobbin thread pulled up to the top, look very carefully at the bobbin case, around the 8 o’clock position. If you see a small bit of fluff there you can gently tease it out with a small needle. That will restore normal tension. If you have had your tension “fixed” by a technician, without having the thread ball removed, you can usually set it back to where it was by looking at the slotted tension adjustment screw on the bobbin case. At the factory this screw is secured by red paint, so it doesn’t change while you are sewing. To put the tension back to factory settings just turn the screw so the broken edges of the paint line up again.

When I was growing up my mother would always use Coats & Clark thread because of the quality. Sadly, like so many other industries, Coats & Clark is now made offshore and the quality has dropped badly. We refused to carry it in our store. However even C & C is better than the Walmart branded thread sold by the store of the same name. It’s very cheap, and in my opinion, very bad.

Your thread choices from local sources may be limited, but thread is not a good place to try to economize. If a project is worth doing, it’s worth spending a little extra to get good thread that will last a long time, and be good for your machine. While you may not have good choices available locally, you can buy just about any thread online.

While we are not affiliated in any way, we like Superior thread. They deserve the name, as their thread is top quality. Superior also has some very informative web pages that provide everything you could ever want to know about thread. If your local dealer does not stock their thread you can order it online.

Recently we polled readers of our Janome list on groups.io for their favorite thread brands. The results of that poll are available here. We will address other types of thread in future posts.